Sunday, October 23
Most of us will depart as a group from Washington DC on a flight that will take us to Ireland where Sir Walter Raleigh's meteoric public career began in 1580 in the aftermath of the gory massacre of hundreds of Irish patriots and their collaborators who sought to expel hated English overlords from their sacred homeland. We'll pick up on his notable heritage and formative years later. But there's no better place to begin than on the island where Raleigh's crushing of an Irish rebellion brought him to the attention of Queen Elizabeth and the royal court in London. Ireland was also where Raleigh assigned Thomas Harriot to survey and map a vast estate awarded to him by Queen Elizabeth for his services in quelling Irish aspirations and in launching an English empire in North America.
Day 1
- Depart from Washington DC (and other connecting cities)
Monday, October 24
We will land at Dublin's international airport on our way to the land of Youghal (pronounced y’all)—where Raleigh lived as he surveyed his Irish estate. Although most of us will be bleary-eyed from overnight journeys, we'll begin our discussions of Raleigh's many adventures in Ireland as we bus from Dublin to the historic site of Castlemartyr (near Youghal) where we will lodge while in Ireland. Castlemartyr and nearby Youghal are Sadly, the windy bluff of Smerwick where Raleigh and the poet Edmund Spenser celebrated the bloody execution of Irish rebels in 1580 is above Dingle Bay on the west coast of Irelandtoo far off our journey route. But as we travel, we will recount the saga of how Raleigh made his mark in Ireland and won his vast estate along the Blackwater River in County Cork and how Harriot used his mastery of geometry to chart both the Carolina coast where Raleigh conducted his first American explorations and Raleigh’s Irish estates. We'll arrive in County Cork for lunch at the cozy Castlemartyr Resort where we will be welcomed by the local leaders of a vibrant movement to preserve and promote Youghal’s deep history and the story of Sir Walter’s residence there. After a long day of travel and our safe arrival at Castlemartyr we can spend the rest of our day relaxing at this glamorous resort and its charming environs.
Day 2
- Arrive in Dublin
- Transfer via motor coach to Castlemartyr
- Welcome and Lunch at hotel
- Free time to explore on own or rest from travel
- Overnight Castlemartyr Resort
Tuesday, October 25
We’ll spend most of this day in the historic walled town of Youghal--the epicenter of Raleigh's Irish estate. He was, in fact, the Lord Mayor of the town during the reign of Elizabeth and he managed both the town and his estate from a manor house still standing and nestled in a corner of Youghal. On the first full day of our journey, we'll focus on the rich historic landmarks of the town. We’ll begin with a walking tour through Youghal's narrow streets where we will encounter buildings, walls, and gardens that predated even Raleigh's residency there. A Benedictine monastery dating from the 12th century; a water gate from the 13th century; a collegiate chapel established in the 13th century and expanded in the 14th; a Norman tower known as Tynte's Castle from the 15th century; and a host of other buildings and ruins from Raleigh's era in the 16th century. At the center of the town is the Georgian landmark Clock Gate Tower completed in 1777, almost a mirror of Philadelphia's Independence Hall. After lunch we will tour, hear heavenly music, and bow our heads in reverence at St. Mary's Collegiate Church as the ornate chapel celebrates its 801st year as a place of worship and shrine for the ancestors of Youghal. We will conclude our town visit with a private tour (thanks to its present owners) into Myrtle Grove, the 16th century residence and offices of Sir Walter Raleigh. After this unique experience we will savor our experiences of the day over a festive welcome dinner and more Irish welcomes from our host Irish friends in County Cork.
Day 3
- Full Breakfast at hotel
- Motorcoach to Youghal
- Youghal Guided Walking Tour
- Lunch in Village
- Private Tour of St. Mary's Collegiate Church
- Private Tour of Myrtle Grove (not open to public)
- Welcome Dinner
- Overnight in Castlemartyr Resort
Wednesday, October 26
Having watched the dramatic ebb and flow of the tidal washes that occur twice daily on the coast of Ireland, we will on this day take an excursion up the scenic and historic Blackwater River. We will gander at many a natural wonder and what can be seen of the historic castle homes of Thomas Harriot at Molena Abbey, the poet Edmund Spenser at Kilcolman Castle, and Raleigh (who was also himself a much-noted poet) at Lismore Castle. We'll debark for a visit to Raleigh's impressive “third” home at Lismore. Much of the territory we will observe from Molena Abbey to Lismore were parts of Raleigh’s estate which were carefully surveyed and mapped by Harriot following his return from North America where he mapped the barrier islands of North Carolina. From Lismore we'll get on a bus that will take us for an unforgettable lunch at Ballymaloe House (a facility operated by the award winning Ballymaloe Cookery School, Organic Farm and Gardens). As we ease back toward Castlemartyr after a scrumptious meal, we'll make a stop at William Penn's Irish residence Shannengary Castle just west of Youghal. After a brief afternoon rest, we will be treated to an authentic Irish pub crawl and traditional music and entertainments through the evening streets of Youghal. We'll take our cues from some of our local hosts.
Day 4
- Full Breakfast at hotel
- Guided private boat excursion up Blackwater River viewing Molena Abbey, Kilcolman Castle,
Lismore Castle
- Lunch at Ballymaloe House (operated by the award winning Ballymaloe Cookery School, Organic Farm
and Gardens)
- William Penn Irish Residence in Shannengary
- Evening Pub Crawl with Irish Entertainment
- Overnight in Castlemartyr Resort
Thursday, October 27
This will be a day of travel to take us from Raleigh's Ireland to the West Country and Salisbury Plain of England where Raleigh spent his richest years at the principal English estate awarded to him by Queen Elizabeth. If flights from Cork to Bristol, England, have been restored in 2021, we'll scurry from Youghal to Cork where we will take an Aer Lingus flight from there to Bristol. Our itinerary won't allow us to linger in Bristol which was one of the greatest of the English slave trade centers. Instead, we will make a bee line to Sherborne where lies Raleigh's beloved Sherborne Castle and Garden. The impressive house today is smaller than Raleigh’s grand edifice, but it is still privately owned by the family that took over the place from the absentee Raleigh while he lived at the Tower of London. But in preparation for our tour of Sherborne, we will this day visit the impressive Montacute House located in the village of Yeovil, a few miles from Sherborne. Built by a prickly neighbor, Sir Edward Phelips, a prominent lawyer in Parliament, this unaltered architectural gem rose in 1598 just as Raleigh's financial situation was sinking toward bankruptcy. How ironic it was that Phelips became one of the leading prosecutors of the ringleaders in the Gunpowder Plot of 1605 in which both Raleigh and Harriot were implicated. Despite all of these connecting links to Raleigh's fall from grace, we will be at Montacute also because some of the greatest Elizabethan portraits from the National Portrait Gallery are displayed here while the NPG is being rebuilt over a five-year period of time. After our tour of Montacute we will repair to the renowned Eastbury Hotel in Sherborne for dinner and rest.
Day 5
- Full Breakfast at hotel
- Travel to Cork International Airport by motor coach for Aer Lingus flight
- Arrival in Bristol UK
- Lunch in Bristol
- Travel Bristol to Sherborne
- Private tour of Montacute House
- Arrive The Eastbury Hotel
- Dinner at The Eastbury Hotel
- Overnight at The Eastbury Hotel
Friday, October 28
We'll saunter by bus over to Sherborne Castle and Gardens for the morning. Here we will be treated to one of the greatest highlights of our entire tour. We have arranged for the veteran archivist and curator of Sherborne, Ann Smith, to provide us with a “bespoke tour” that will enable us to confront a wide diversity of documents and artifacts from Raleigh's rough and tumble life. If you could never conceive of Raleigh from his numerous suave and well-dressed portraits as a pipe-smoker, you'll get to see here the impressive pipe from which he probably took his last puff as he walked to the scaffold and his execution. We’ll also see rare or even one of a kind Thomas Harriot wax seal on a document intended to preserve Sherborne for Bess should Raleigh face execution. These are a few of the numerous Raleigh treasures preserved in this still surviving house that Raleigh and Bess and their children considered home. We'll enjoy lunch in the town of Sherborne and then dinner there too. For those who have not been to Stonehenge or who would like to go again, we will provide an optional afternoon jaunt to this mysterious monument that has attracted millions of visitors—including Benjamin Franklin who hypothesized about its astrophysical purpose and function when he visited there with his son William in 1757. While Franklin sashayed Lord Pembroke’s palatial Wilton House (14 minutes by auto today) for dinner, we’ll have our evening meal together in Sherborne.
Day 6
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Private tour of Sherborne Castle & Gardens
- Lunch in Sherborne
- Optional group visit to Stonehenge or free time to explore Sherborne
- Dinner in Sherborne
- Overnight at The Eastbury Hotel
Saturday, October 29
We will now resume our journey on the trail of Raleigh from Sherborne Castle to London. But with a very important stop in Winchester where Raleigh's political and legal problems turned from threat into imprisonment. After the death of Queen Elizabeth in 1603, Raleigh lost many of his special preferments and means of support when James VI of Scotland was crowned as James I of England. A few of his many enemies implicated both Raleigh and Harriot in a supposed plot to kidnap the new king on his triumphal parade from Scotland to London. Immediately Raleigh was escorted to the Tower of London. He was held there awaiting trial. Meanwhile, when plague threatened London, his trial was moved to Winchester. In November he came before a jury of four knights, four esquires, and four gentlemen in the same Great Hall of Winchester Castle built by William the Conqueror and which still houses the legendary great Round Table of King Arthur. We will here receive a lively rendering of Raleigh's dramatic defense of his words and threats against King James and wonder how it was that he was found guilty of treason and sentenced to be hanged and, like all traitors at the time, drawn and quartered. We will enjoy a lunch in Winchester and will then proceed to London and our lodgings at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel, our cozy base for the next six nights. Indeed, we will open our stay in London with a celebratory dinner at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel where we can memorialize our experiences in Ireland and the West Country or talk about our forthcoming experiences in London and its environs.
Day 7
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Depart Sherborne by motor coach to Winchester
- Tour and talk at the Great Hall of Winchester Castle on King Arthur and Raleigh
- Lunch in Winchester
- Free time to shop and enjoy Winchester
- Depart Winchester by motor coach to London
- London Welcome Dinner at hotel
- Overnight at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
Sunday, October 30
A visit to Greenwich is always a wonderful day—if the weather cooperates. We will have faith that the gods will cooperate. From previous tours we know that our travelers like to take a leisurely boat down the Thames to Greenwich directly to a unique lunch at Trafalgars Tavern. White bait is the most popular item on the menu here and even if you don't like to see little eyes on the tiny fish you are eating, we guarantee that you'll love a dish of white bait or something else from their varied menu. You then have your choice of great venues where you can take your own tour. The National Maritime Museum is filled with maritime treasures ranging from the days of Raleigh explorations, the Spanish Armada, and England's predominance on the world's oceans from then through the Second World War. We will discuss two aspects of Thomas Harriot’s career: (1) His role as instructor of English ship captains in the theory and crafts of navigation; and (2) the maps of Ireland he drew for Raleigh among the collections of the Museum. Greenwich was the safe down river place where Henry VIII's two daughters, Mary I and Elizabeth I, were born and grew up in this lush haven. Probably the tourist favorite here is the Royal Observatory which was established in 1675 and where since 1833 atop one of its turrets a ball is lifted up an iron rod every day to drop precisely at 1 p.m. Mariners departing to cross the world's seas have since that time been able to set chronometers to determine correct positioning at nearly any point on earth. As a location where precise time has been a supreme value for hundreds of years, the Observatory was chosen in 1884 as ground zero for global time known as Greenwich Mean Time. Our travelers will be able to return via boat to our dock near Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel whenever each person has finished exploring the historic sites of Greenwich and also enjoy the down town shops that are always great places for finding choice memorabilia and gifts from our tour of Raleigh's England.
Day 8
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Boat to Greenwich
- Lunch at Trafalgar Tavern
- Free time to shop in Greenwich or to join a group that will hoof around to the National Maritime Museum, The Queen's House, and The Royal Observatory
- Return to London by boat at leisure
- Overnight at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
Monday, October 31
No combined Raleigh and Harriot tour would be complete without a trip to Oxford where both of them studied at what is now Oriel College. Moreover, Harriot was a local boy who was born and grew up in the town of Oxford. We will bus from London in the morning and will tour Oriel College where our two subjects are among the large galaxy of intellects, scientists, and world leaders who have made their mark around the world. We will get a private look behind the curtain here and be able to view some of the College's Raleigh and Harriot treasures. We will also take a look at a portrait at Trinity College said to be of Harriot. Whether it is or not, it has been accepted as Harriot by scholars and publishers for many years. Since Oxford is the home of some of the greatest scholars on Raleigh and the Elizabethan era, we will meet and converse with a few of these stars. We will also enjoy lunch in the town and take a walk around pausing at such renowned landmarks as the Radcliffe Camera (1748, a reading room), the Bodleian Library (1320,”Old Bodley”), and the Old Ashmolean (1683), which now houses the Museum of the History of Science. We'll also saunter by some of Oxford's historic colleges which have made the University a center of learning, competition, and contemplation for almost a millennium. After our tour, we'll bus back to London in time for those travelers wanting more to venture out to London's vibrant and magnetic West End for an early group dinner and the opportunity for theatre goers to select a play that they might wish to see on their own. Since our hotel is only a few short blocks from the West End theaters, we can stroll at our leisure among the theaters and even buy tickets onsite.
Day 9
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Depart London by motor coach to Oxford
- Private tour of Oriel College, a constituent college of Oxford University
- View of Raleigh and Harriet treasures
- Lunch in town
- Guided walking tour of Oxford
- Return by motor coach to Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
- Group dinner in the West End for theatre goers
- Overnight at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
Tuesday, November 1
Although the National Portrait Gallery is closed for rebuilding over the next five years, we will be treated on this day with a unique seminar arranged for us at the NPGs conservation laboratory. The NPG has been examining all of its Elizabethan portraiture during the last decade and the unanticipated findings in portraits including of Elizabeth and Raleigh are astonishing. Our guide will be Dr. Charlotte Bolland, Senior Curator of Research and of 16th Century Collections at the NPG. We will then stroll down St. Martin's Street through Trafalgar Square taking note of Raleigh and American historic corners along the way. We'll swing by Benjamin Franklin's House on Craven Street (the only Franklin home still standing) and then pause at the Sherlock Holmes Tavern for lunch. Both Franklin’s residence and the Sherlock Holmes Tavern are very close to the site of the grand Durham House which was provided to Raleigh as a London residence. It was at the Durham House where Harriot conducted his school on navigation and where Harriot lived while he worked with Raleigh to explore and colonize the Carolina coast and Virginia. After lunch we'll bus over to the British Museum—one of the great museums of the world. Among other things relating to our central figure in the Museum are the original watercolors sketched and colored by the artist John White when he and Harriot were sent by Raleigh to Virginia in 1585. These small, but powerful drawings have defined the way we envision American Indians from the 16th century to the present. It takes almost a special dispensation from Elizabeth II to see these fragile gems of art. But our viewing has been permitted by the Museum's curator Kim Sloan, Curator of British Drawings and Watercolours, who will be our guide and notable authority. There will be time afterward for us either to spend the afternoon in the engrossing galleries of the British Museum, take a walk around the entertaining Bloomsbury neighborhood or return to Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth to rest up for your own evening of dining, revelry, or theatre in the West End or elsewhere.
Day 10
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Depart hotel for St. Martin's Place
- Private talk at the National Portrait Gallery Conservation Laboratory on Elizabethan
Portraits
- Strolling walking tour (Trafalgar Square, National Gallery—George Washington Statue, St.
Martin-in-the-Fields, Benjamin Franklin House)
- Lunch at Sherlock Holmes Tavern
- Private showing of John White Watercolors and tour of British Museum
- Return by motor coach to Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel or stay and explore on your own
- Free time
- Overnight at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
Wednesday, November 2
We visit two places on this day where doom surrounded Raleigh. It was at the grand mansion house owned by the Duke of Northumberland known as Syon where Raleigh was said to help formulate the 1603 plan (Bye Plot) to kidnap King James VI of Scotland before he could be crowned King James I of England. Harriot lived at Syon throughout these stormy years. Once the storm blew over for Harriot, he used Syon as his laboratory and observatory for two decades. It was here that Harriot observed the Sun and mapped its spots; the Moon of which he drew a map; and identified moons circling Jupiter and Saturn. Both Raleigh and the Duke of Northumberland were found guilty of treason against the King. Both also were imprisoned at the Tower of London for the rest of their lives. Since Harriot continued his residence at Syon House, he was able to serve both Northumberland and Raleigh as purveyor of books, clothes, food, and anything else they needed while imprisoned. We will have lunch at Syon or nearby where we will be able to pause and talk about plight of Harriot and his two imprisoned patrons—Raleigh and Northumberland. Given this background, we will next proceed to the Tower of London itself for a special guided tour of the spaces where Raleigh and Northumberland lived during some of the saddest, but most productive periods of their lives. We will leave the Tower with bowed heads for the fate of these great figures of the Elizabethan era. But we will also understand that the Tower of London was always a very special prison—used almost always to confine prominent, even knighted political prisoners until the government could decide what to do with them. We'll head back to Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth from which we can all, once again, choose a play or some other entertainment for the evening in London.
Day 11
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Transfer by motor coach to Brentford, England
- Private tour of Syon House
- Transfer by motor coach to Central London
- Lunch
- Special tour of the Tower of London
- Transfer by motor coach hotel
- Overnight at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
Thursday, November 3
The culminating events of our Raleigh tour will occur on this day. When King James I decided the time had come in 1618 for Raleigh to be executed, he gave two exceptions to the directive of the 1603 court that had declared Raleigh a traitor. The first deviation was to declare that Raleigh would only lose his head at the hands of an axeman! There would be no need to draw and quarter his body as was normal in the case of traitors. The second modification was that Raleigh's head was to be handed over to his widow Bess who would be awaiting nearby after it was severed. Thus ordered, Raleigh was removed from the Tower of London on October 28, 1618 and held in a guard house adjacent to St. Margaret Church which is still today in the shadow of Westminster Abbey where kings and queens are crowned and married and funeralized. We will go to St. Margaret Church on the 402nd anniversary of Raleigh's execution. We will get all of the particulars from a colorful denizen of the Church, one Jeremy Fairhead. He'll describe to us the events of that day, where the scaffold was located, and how bodies and remains were scurried from one place to another. After this solemn commemoration, we'll hear a rendering of Raleigh's memorable speech from the scaffold. We’ll distribute copies of the notes taken by Thomas Harriot of the speech as he witnessed both the speeches and the bloody execution. Travelers will have the option of touring the adjacent Westminster Abbey afterword. We will be free for some last-minute shopping or sight-seeing during the rest of the afternoon. For the evening, we will venture out to our journey organizers' favorite newly discovered restaurant. It's called Browns' and it's located in the St. Martins area. We favor this place for our celebratory Farewell Dinner because it has wonderful food in a courtroom setting. In fact, it was formerly a courthouse. Here we will be subpoenaed one and all to give testimony to our gathered travelers as to the fast friends and good memories we will take from our Raleigh pilgrimage forever.
Day 12
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Transfer by motor coach to Central London
- Private, guided tour of St. Margaret Church
- Self-guided tour Westminster Abbey
- Transfer to by motor coach to Radisson Blu Hotel or explore on own
- Free Afternoon
- Farewell Dinner at Browns Brasserie & Bar Covent Garden
- Overnight at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
Friday, November 4
We'll get a timely start to London Heathrow from which we will depart to Dulles International Airport (and other destinations)
Day 13
- Full breakfast at hotel
- Transfer by motor coach to London Heathrow Airport
- Group Flight to Dulles International Airport, Washington (and other destinations)